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 Lesson 1. Part 1. Basic Costume Styling and Design.
Introduction
The costume design course familiarizes the students with the basics of composition:
1. plastic properties of fabrics;
2. rhythmic and proportional costume organization;
3. color in costume;
4. optical illusions;
5. concepts of creative treatment;
5. ground rules for creation of coordinates and outfit;
7. sleeve styles, as well as applying the rules to analyze historical and national costumes as examples of arts and crafts.
This course is the first step toward further studies of the history of costume, current fashion, trends in its evolution and forecast for the future. This material may be used for school lectures on theory of costume design, as well as for studying decorative arts, styling and designing of garments.
The goal of this course is to introduce the students to the costume composition theory. The course is designed to awaken and develop the students’ creative approach to costume artistic design and kindle their interest to independent work on designs and ready-made models. This course offers the first step, the basics for further study of elements of modeling, designing and garment tailoring techniques.
Graduates of the artistic design course will be able to use their knowledge for teaching independent classes with junior high and high school students, as well as in studios and garment design study groups.
In addition, the obtained knowledge may be used to lecture on history and theory of costume composition and may help a graduate to continue his or her studies in schools and universities.
Silhouette
A costume silhouette is usually defined as a two-dimensional expression of a three-dimensional configuration, which emphasizes its peculiarities. A costume silhouette depends on the direction (slope) of the set of its shoulders, location (raised or dropped) of the waistline, hipline, and bottom line. Costume configuration is characterized by cross-sectional and front-face silhouettes. Aesthetic perception and emphasis of a silhouette are determined by the quality of the technological development of costume configuration.
Costume configuration is created by virtue of constructive solution and matching of the costume’s individual dimensions or parts. Lines along which such matching is achieved are called constructive lines. They include connectional seams, relieves, configuration partition lines from which the configuration starts to change, undercuts, tucks etc. If such lines are decorated (with a seam, embroidery, lace etc), they are referred to as constructive ornament lines. There are also ornament lines proper, such as strips of embroidery, goffering, inkle etc.
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Topic 1: Functions of garments.
 Initially, garments served to protect people from the effects of ambient environment. Coarse and rough materials were used to create simple configurations.
Since the ancient times, clothing was classified by nature of its styling and wearing manner. A belt is one of the oldest clothing elements to which weaponry and other items were fastened.
Based on the belt, an idea of a pocket evolved later. Animal skins and cloths stretched over belts became prototypes of skirts and trousers. From times immemorial, garments also served for decoration, which is confirmed by a variety of drawings and coloring used by people to decorate their garments for thousands of years.
The need to decorate the body emerged even before the garments themselves, since people embellished their bodies with different colors long before clothes appeared. In primitive societies, making one’s clothes and decorations was each individual’s own business. Inside a community, only the strongest and fittest could own the most ample and sumptuous decoration. Such a person could make his clothes much faster and better or use his inventiveness to improve it.
The most effective garment forms, coloring or materials were imitated and considered to be “modern”. Therefore, conditions for the emergence of fashion were created.
All forms of ancient garments may be categorized into three basic types:
1. Unsawn (uncut) garments made of a single piece of cloth wrapped around one’s body or knotted or fastened by a pin at the belt (Egypt, Rome, Greece). (pic. 1-5)
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| Fig. 1-2. Women’s cover cloak. Ancient Egypt, 3400 B.C |
2. Sawn garments (tunic shirts). They were made of cloth and leather, with holes left for the
head, legs and arms and later with sleeves attached. Shirt design or cutting square pieces of cloth appeared far back in the past and still exists in many cultures. (Pic. 6).
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| Pic. 3 |
Pic. 4 |
3. Garments cut out of square pieces of cloth (such as ponchos and wraps). (Pic. 7).
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Modern garments perform the following basic functions:
utilitarian – practical, protective, ergonomic, hygienic;
social – regional, professional, ceremonial, erotic, symbolic, sign-bearing;
aesthetic – artistic and imaginative.
The functions of a costume were formed throughout history. The level of society’s development showed in its use of clothing.
The way of life, as well as the main types of activities (such as hunting or agriculture) engendered specific elements in garments. Gradually, clothing came to perform utilitarian and practical functions. The emergence of social groups introduced elements of the symbolical function in clothing.
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| Men's garments. Ancient Greece. |
The historic conditions of the evolution of human society furthered a whole set of various functions, namely religious, magic, as well as those related to age, social status, gender, profession, region, and ethnicity. The following section briefly discusses and analyzes the characteristics and aesthetic proportions of costumes in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome.
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ANCIENT EGYPT
The ideal image of an ancient Egyptian consisted in a tall figure with broad shoulders, narrow waist and hips, large traits and almond-shaped eyes. A symbolical solar disc was the main decoration in the costume. The disc symbolized the god named Aton, who was believed to be the single creator of the world and all existence. Fig. 7 shows a women’s cloak CASARIS and its draping method.
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Pic. 5 Men’s amices, cover cloaks. Ancient Egypt, 3400 B.C. |
Pic. 6 Women’s himation cloak. Ancient Greece, 2200 B.C. |
Pic. 7 Women’s pala cloak, Ancient Rome, 1500 B.C |
Pic. 8 A smaller women’s cover cloak. Ancient Egypt, 3400 B.C.QUIZ |
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Ancient Egyptians decorations
Ancient Egyptians used a variety of decorations made of gold and enamel, as well as beads and diadems.
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| Pic. 9 Various ancient Egyptian decorations. |
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| Pic. 10. Queen’s grand headdress and collar neckpiece, stylized artificial feathers. Ancient Egypt, 3400 B.C. |
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Lesson 1
 Basic Costume Styling and Design
This course is the first step toward further studies of the history of costume, current fashion, trends in its evolution and forecast for the future. This material may be used for school lectures on theory of costume design, as well as for studying decorative arts, styling and designing of garments.
Lesson 2
 Pattern Drafting
Learn to use the processes the famous designers use. You will be drafting a top and bottom pattern and learning fit techniques. No previous experience in pattern making is necessary. This course is open to Adults and Teens ages 13 and up.
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Lesson 3
 Adobe Illustrator for Fashion – Level I
Adobe Illustrator® CS3 is a popular, powerful drawing tool used bymany lower mainland apparel companies for drawing flats, fashion illustrations and catalogue development. This beginner’s course will cover the basic tools used in drawing with Adobe Illustrator software using fashion-related examples. Adobe Photoshop® CS3 will also be introduced.
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